Stabbing it out in the kitchen with Jack and Jill

For the first time in my vaguely grown up life, I am celebrating All Hallows' E'en.

As a kid we did the trick-or-treat thing - under the watchful gaze of my parents, in a clearly defined perimeter, and with strict instructions not to perform any tricks if treats weren't delivered. It was all about who could bring home the biggest teeth-rotting haul, and who could consume said haul fastest without spewing up a technicolour dream.

This year, I am celebrating with jack 0'lanterns that I have carved myself. That's right, my idea of vaguely grown up Halloween is being allowed to use sharp implements for fun. Despite the howls of the anti-America brigade, Halloween is taking off in Australia (a note for said haters: it started out as a Celtic pagan celebration, a kind of festival of the dead, not an American Hallmark card). The practically hollow 'gourd' pumpkins were stocked by Harris Farm this month, and decorations and costumes are easier to source than ever. So maybe Halloween isn't strictly an Australian holiday - but why be patriotic when there are ghouls to be scared off, cult horror to be absorbed, pumpkins to be carved and a sugar free-for-all on offer?

Should you wish to partake in the Halloween spirit, pumpkin disembowelling is a particularly festive option. And easier than you ever thought, too. The pumpkins are mostly hollow, very unlike the Australian varieties. Arm yourself with the best knife that your kitchen has (a challenge in a sharehouse, I will admit) and follow the instructions of a person who has done this many more times than I have. I would encourage you to scoop out the seeds and stringy membranes with your hands rather than a spoon, as this is much more fun. Don't forget to keep the seeds. They are damn tasty after some toasting - see my recipe below. Also, if this is your first go at carving, designs with straight lines are much easier to work with than curves.

Off with his head!

Mmmmmm, brains....

Toasted pumpkin seeds!

You will need...

Pumpkins (the Halloween kind)
Olive oil
Salt

The how-to...

1. Preheat your oven to 200 degrees, and put a saucepan of well-salted water on to boil.
2. Take the seeds that you have scooped out of your pumpkin and separate them from the stringy stuff, then give the seeds a good rinse.
3. Tip the seeds into the boiling, salted, water, and turn the heat down until the water is at a simmer. Leave it at a simmer for 10 minutes.
4. Empty the contents of the saucepan into a colander, and shake all of the excess water off the pumpkin seeds. Spread them out on a baking tray and drizzle with olive oil.
5. Pop the tray into the hot oven and keep an eye on them. They should start to brown within 10 - 20 minutes, pull them out a couple of times in this period to give the tray a shake, and then for the last time when they are toasted to your satisfaction.
6. Let them cool properly and then taste for seasoning. You can add a little more salt at this point, and serve.

Cat in my hat

Come springtime, fashion - and all those who worship at its altar - turn to hats. Hats are the make or break factor in any races outfit, and it seems they are also the latest in bed wear. At least, according to Miss Molly, who won't be seen lounging on my bed without this stiff cream net number.

Simplicity is all the rage this year, says this fashion forecast, and Miss Molly has customised last year's hat appropriately. Gone are the fussy pink and black spotted feathers of last season. They were ripped out of the hatband and devoured like the inanimate-reminiscent-of-bird-prey/fashion faux pax that they were. Feathers are to be replaced by brooches or gemstones, apparently. This might explain the accruing collection of dead cockroaches in the house that kitten inspects frequently, turning them over with her paw before rejecting them for small flaws like scratches and crushed shells. If you were to look closely, they have a certain shine and brooch-like shape to them. If nothing else, the legs would probably adhere quite well to the stiff net of the hat like cicada shells on a tree. A little has been done to making the hat smaller and more structured than it was, in the way of some artful claw-work. There is definitely less hat than there used to be. Kitten hasn't quite gotten to re-colouring the hat yet, but luckily for her cream has been tipped as an elegant option this year.

It may not be her finest piece yet, but at least she will trump Dr. Seuss's Cat in the Hat, with his Where's Wally colour theme and penchant for the ridiculous. Not that I'm one of those pushy and competitive (kitten) stage-mothers, but between you and me, I imagine the Cat would probably grin less if he knew exactly how outdated his oversized and multicoloured headpiece would be amongst the pillboxes and bejewelled headbands at this years Fashion on the Field contest.

Do the noodle dance

Not exactly sure what the noodle dance would look like (perhaps a sperm-like wriggling, coupled with jumping?), but a number of people (myself included) did a spontaneous jig when getting close enough to the Night Noodle Markets in Hyde Park to smell the noodly-goodness.

The Night Noodle Markets are an institution at the Sydney International Food Festival (previously known as Good Food Month). Of all that is on offer, this is one of the most affordable and accessible ways to take part in the food festivities. For two weeks in October, Hyde Park is transformed into a series of upmarket hawker stalls. Free entertainment abounds, elegantly costumed women dance on a central stage set amidst lanterns and light shows and parades of Chinese drums and Lion dancers snake expertly through the tightly packed tables, chairs and crowds.

We arrived at 7.30pm to find the park heaving with people. Queues looked revoltingly long, but once we made up our minds about which stall to eat from (East Ocean Restaurant for yum cha style food) it was an easy 5 - 10 minutes to the front of the line. We ordered one of the many meal deals on offer - salt and pepper squid with a 10 piece dim sum for $25 - and it was handed over steaming hot and fragrant within seconds. Despite the crowds, we quickly scored a table and chairs for 9 people, and this seemed to be the case for most.

The offering from East Ocean was good value, comfortably feeding two hungry people. The dim sum included a selection of the the less expensive items - deep fried spring rolls and pork buns - as well as a couple of nicer pieces like steamed prawn dumplings. It is possible to purchase the dim sum items individually for $2 each if you only want your favourites. The salt and pepper squid was the winner though; the batter was light and crisp, the balance of salt and pepper was just right and the squid was tender, with no stringiness to speak of.

Healthier options are also available at the markets if you are so inclined, my flatmate ordered a gently spiced, lemon-laced, seafood and salad plate from Seafood and Eat It. If Asian cuisine is not for you, there is a token gozleme stand amongst the hawker food. Toby's Estate and the delightful Serendipity ice cream also have stalls, and there are a couple of bars - including a Coopers beer garden - onsite too. The only critique would be that although the festival had advertised that they were taking a green approach this year some vendors were still serving food in plastic containers, rather than using the recyclable plates.

The loveliest aspect of the festival, and this alone is worth going along for, is being able to experience a beautiful part of Sydney made into a functional and vibrant social space for people to come together - and on a weeknight, no less. My only regret is not leaving space for noodles.

The 2009 Night Noodle Markets are on Oct 12-16 and 19-23 from 5.00pm-9.30pm in Hyde Park. Head to the official site for more information about what is happening during the Sydney International Food Festival.

A Hollywood ending

A solution for when cakes go a little wrong: stick in letter-shaped candles for a Hollywood sign effect and all the funny looking pieces will be forgiven.


This one only went wrong because I didn't grease the moulds properly. Otherwise, this is quite a good recipe - mostly because it harnesses the awesome tastebud surprise that is chocolate and chilli at the same time. You can start this recipe the day before, it can be done in two stages.

You will need...

1/2 cup sour cream
100g dark chocolate, chopped
100g unsalted butter, softened and chopped
1/2 cup brown sugar
2 eggs, at room temperature
a splash of vanilla essence
1 cup plain flour
1 teaspoon chilli powder (for an extra kick, substitute half of this with cayenne pepper)
1/4 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
1/4 teaspoon salt

The how-to...

1.Pre-heat oven to 180 degrees and grease 6 muffin tins.
2. In a little saucepan, over low heat, stir the dark chocolate, sour cream and chilli/cayenne pepper until the chocolate has melted. Stir continuously so that the chocolate does not stick and burn. Turn off the heat and put aside for a moment.
3. Take a small bowl and line with plastic wrap, then pour the chocolate mixture in. Let it cool, then cover and freeze (overnight if you wish).
4. On the day you wish to serve the cakes of loveliness, beat together the butter and sugar. Add the eggs, one at a time, then the vanilla, and continue to beat unti incorporated.
5. Sift the flour, bicarbonate of soda and salt together into the butter mixture. Stir until combined. Divide the mixture equally between the muffin tins, and put into the oven for 12 minutes.
6. Take the frozen chocolate and cut into 6 pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and push gently into the centre of each of the semi-cooked muffins.
7. Pop the tray back into the oven for another 15 minutes - the muffins should look done, there may be chocolate bubbling out of the top. Let them cool a little in the tray before you take them out to serve.

These are lovely with vanilla mascarpone, or a little ice cream. And fancy candles if you make a mess like I did.

New Zealand: more than just a place that accepts Americans

For the general embarrassment of the the New Zealand media and public, PM John Key recently appeared on the David Letterman show to present the top ten reasons to visit the Land of the Long White Cloud. Note: contrary to his televised offer, John Key will not collect you from the airport. Particularly if you arrive at 4.00am after your plane has been delayed due to a freak red dust storm. More celebrity-grabbing publicity stunt than tourism campaign, Key didn't exactly sell the place. Should you find yourself in Auckland, for example, there is more to do than visit the new Cinnabon at the airport. This isn't a top ten, because (to the surprise of most) there are more than ten things to be done in Auckland. And none of them involve sheep.

We'll start with breakfast.

1. Altar
465 Mt Eden Rd, Mt Eden. Open daily from 7am - 10pm for breakfast, lunch and tapas.

Licensed cafe set up in a pretty white villa set back from the road containing a 300 year old Spanish altar, for which the cafe is named. The altar is usually strewn with homemade goodies of the sweet variety, which go down nicely with the Allpress coffee.

I've read some bad reviews, but in my experience this place is a lovely brunch option, offering the classics with a little something extra - try the roast mushrooms with creamy goats cheese puree on sourdough, or the poached free range eggs with corned beef hashbrowns and hollandaise. The relishes and chutneys that came with the savoury dishes add a hint of spice and a punch of colour. If you're lucky enough to get a sunny day, try to nab a courtyard seat to escape the noise inside.

2. Chapel
147 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby (or Ponsnobby, depending on how you feel about the place).

If you're inclined to continue in the religious theme, stop at Chapel for drinks, decent bar food and its well decorated interior - a tasteful rather than gimmicky themed bar. It touts itself as attracting a 'discerning yet fun' clientele, so keep yourself entertained by trying to spot the socialites and other trendy types tottering around Ponsonby. More details on their site.

3. Sichuan in Remuera Restaurant
333 Remuera Rd, Remuera. Open 7 days, Yum Cha from 11.00am - 2.30pm.

If you've overdone it the night before, Yum Cha is perfectly timed for a hangover cure. You'll need to know what you want, because the trolley staff are fast, and it's best not to ask too many questions about the ingredients. Try the homestyle eggplant, spicy fried flat noodles, and steamed dumplings - both the scallop and prawn are particularly good. The egg custard tart is a nice sweet finish. They are also licensed, if you're ready for hair of the dog.

4. Rialto Cinemas, Newmarket
167-169 Broadway, Newmarket. Open the usual cinema hours.

NZ is generally supportive of your right to drink, and this place is no exception. In a country where you can buy your alcohol with your milk and bread in the supermarket, it should be no surprise that the primarily arthouse cinema allows you to take a glass of wine in to the screening. I can't vouch for all of the Rialto's, but the Newmarket cinema has damn comfortable chairs for you to curl up in while you get your flick fix. Good place to while away one of Auckland's rather numerous rainy days.

5. Urban Cafe
Corner Carlton Gore Rd & Kingdon St, Newmarket. Open 7 days.

Should you wish to berate John Key's for his Letterman appearance, apparently he and his entourage get their caffeine fix here occasionally. Urban uses the amazing Harney & Sons tea and offers both express and cooked to order items. More information, including the full menu and a revolving view of their clean industrial style interior are available on their site.

6. Rangitoto Island
Hauraki Gulf

If you're fit, or can rope someone into dragging you up the last incline, trekking up Rangitoto is a worthwhile venture. If you are into exercise it is a lovely achievement I'm sure, but for the rest of us the 360 degree views of, well, everything, are breathtaking (just like the climb). If nothing else, I can promise that you will feel grateful when you stop and sit down at the top. Rangitoto is also the site of some interesting social history - you can even see a 'bach', of John Key's top ten. More information on the island and how to get there here.

7. Flying fox at Little Rangitoto Park
Upland Rd, Remuera.


A far less extreme version of Rangitoto, with the added benefit of a flying fox. Sure, it's intended for kids, but if you bend your knees and lift your legs so they don't drag along the track there is still a significant amount of fun to be had here. The park itself is really pretty and best of all, it's free.

8. Chalin Tea House
340 Dominion Rd, Mt Eden. Open 7 days, from early afternoon to late.

Snack time. The stand out feature of this tea house is its overwhelming yellowness and the quaint request printed on all of the packaging: 'Please drink carefully to avoid choking on the toppings'. After that, there is also near-overwhelming choice on the menu and a large collection of manga comics and trashy magazines for you to browse if that's your thing. The caramel pearl tea is always a good choice, but if you're not up for tea try one of the puddings. If you like a little more kitsch with your bubble tea, head to Hulu Cat.

9. Salvage

If vintage textiles make you weak at the knees, you have to stop here. The shelves are stacked with fabrics, baskets overflow with trims of all kinds and there are entire drawers dedicated to buttons. Flick through the pattern box for inspiration, or have a chat to the lovely lady who owns the place. If you want to take in some pretty without spending any of your dollars, there is a great rambling garden that you can look down on to the left of the shop.

10. Eden Gardens
24 Omana Avenue (off Mountain Rd), Epsom. Open daily, 9am - 4pm (and a little later in Summer).

If the glimpse of the private garden on Mt Eden Rd isn't enough for you, head to the Eden Garden for 5 full acres of greenery and flowering goodness. Maintained by a team of volunteers, this garden started as an abandoned quarry on one of Auckland's volcanic cones. There are some sweet winding paths and little turn offs for you to stroll about, and a nice view from the top.


A silly piece of trivia for you: the pretty pink foliage of the Chinese Toon, above, is onion-flavoured and edible. Coming out of Spring the leaves turn from pink to cream to green.

11. The Fridge
507 New North Rd, Kingsland. Open every day, from about 8am - 4pm.

A deli-style cafe offering fresh and delicious food taking you from breakfast through to late lunch. An excellent choice if you're in a hurry, because they have an oven full of to-die-for, meal on the run pies.

12. Piha

If it's warm, join the rest of Auckland in a day trip to the coast. Piha is also worth a non-swimming visit in the cooler months just to walk across the glittering black sand and climb Lion Rock, or wander one of the other tracks from the beach. Goat Island Marine Reserve is also a good day trip, only a one hour drive from Auckland, and offers snorkling if you want to gander at the pretty fish. Just don't forget to be liberal with the sunscreen and seek out some shade. New Zealand might have a lot to offer but an intact ozone layer is not one of those things. You will crisp, I promise.

13. The Fishmonger
363 Parnell Rd, Parnell. Open 7 days, 10.30am - 9.00pm.

The only choice for food after a day at the beach is fish and chips, and The Fishmonger is one of Auckland's best. For a quick stop, head to Parnell and grab a stool at the bench for people-watching. Kumera chips with salt and pepper squid, a couple of scallops and a bottle of any of the Phoenix organic soft drinks will have you sorted.